Katie Gard in Manila, Philippines

a window into my new home in an informal urban settlement

Angel’s Burger March 5, 2012

Filed under: Community Economics — Katie in Manila @ 5:25 pm

Food Too Popular
Angel’s Burger is a favorite (in fact, the only) chain hamburger shop in Botocan.  It has great patronage, especially because it’s in a prime location — right next to the central basketball court.

Two days ago, the corporation decided to close down their Botocan site.  Apparently, its delivery truck had started having problems getting all the way to Botocan.  Reportedly, kids in a neighboring community had practiced their hold up skills on the truck recently & stolen all the buns.  I don’t know if the incident was repeated or not, but without negotiation, Angel’s decided that was beyond what they wanted to deal with, and pulled out.

Opportunity for Entrepreneurship

As disappointing as the loss is to the people who like to hang out at the court and eat burgers, a few of us are wondering if this might be a good opportunity for the workers to go from employees to owners/operators.  It’s popular enough.  They’d survive.  They just need the capital to start.

There are plenty of micro-credit organizations around that offer loans — some at fair rates, and others at ridiculously high rates.  I did some research, and it looks like the low-rate ones available in Manila (like CCT.org) are so into the slow work of community development that it would be difficult to get a quick loan from them on-the-spot, to keep up the momentum.

Lending agencies available from the US (like KIVA.org) use “field partners” (like CCT.org), so you can’t get a loan directly from KIVA.org anyway.
Hmm… options, options.  This is all happening at the same time that a few of us were musing about some of our church members who don’t have jobs, but hang around the Angel’s Burger area a lot.  I wonder if they’d ever want to pool their resources & go into business with the Angel’s Burger’s employees…

Fun to think about.  But I know it has to be their idea — no sense in me pushing something where mine is the only enthusiasm.  ;)

Just the same, it’s fun to start thinking about practical application for all I’m learning right now in my Community Economics course about micro-enterprise.  :)

 

History of Botocan March 4, 2012

Filed under: Urban Realities — Katie in Manila @ 5:42 pm

Barangay Botocan is an informal settlement of over 4,000 people living in the heart of Quezon City, Metro Manila, Philippines.  According to residents, the land currently belongs to the University of the Philippines (U.P.), but in its early days, apparently it was controlled by the National Waterworks and Sewerage Authority (NWSA).  It’s unclear to me whether there was a transfer of property rights, or if both institutions believe they own the land.

Moving In…

Ate Merly Gamos was among the first to set up a home on the land, in the 1960s.  At that time, the land was a vacant, muddy lot, spotted with molehill-like mounds (locally termed, ‘dwarf homes’).  She initiated a contract with NWSA allowing her to build a plywood hut on the land, providing that if NWSA ever needed to use the land, she would relocate.  NWSA posted guards on the land so that as more people started moving in, the guards could ensure that no one was setting up permanent structures, lest they get too established there, which would make it harder to ask them to leave later.

But sneakily, Ate Merly put up a concrete frame behind her plywood façade.  The plywood, after all, had become infested with termites.  She also strategically made friends with the NWSA guards, bringing them plates of pancit (rice noodles) on her birthday, as Filipino custom would have you do for your neighbors.

Water

Because fetching water is bothersome, they figured out ways to bore holes and extract water from the pipes in place on the National Waterworks’ property.  Actually, Ate Merly’s relative works for NWSA, “so he dug the holes & put in the channeling tubes because he has the right equipment, and I paid him,” she reports.  As it turns out, buried beneath the long, narrow settlement of Botocan lies NWSA’s massive waterway system; “you could drive a truck through it if it wasn’t filled with water.”  So the availability of water, even if illegal, made it an attractive location to settle.

My neighbor sits outside his family's storefront, which sells ready-made meals to community members. More often than not, houses on my major footpath have a store-front: either for freshly-cooked "ulam" (the food that goes with your rice), or grocery items, for convenience. ... The cement blocks with holes cover a drainage waterway.

Enterprise

Ate Merly, a true business woman, started engaging in various microenterprises, selling baked goods, meats, etc. to the neighbors, and became relatively financially influential.

Electricity

Ate Merly was soon able to pay Meralco, the local power company, to put in electricity in the lower part of Botocan, where she was living.  “Had NWSA found out, they would have been mad.”  Botocan, at that time, still wasn’t recognized as a barangay.  It was still just a cluster of families living ‘temporarily’ on NWSA land, or so the owners thought.

Municipality

During the Marcos regime, informal settlements (locally termed, “barrios”) across metro Manila began to be recognized as political units, or “barangays.”  A barangay captain was soon appointed from among the settlers, and he registered the cluster of houses as “Botocan,” a word meaning, “the place of: the string that holds the twigs of a stiff broom together.”  The Botocan families’ guiding principle was that “scattered, we are nothing, but together, we are strong.”

Drainage

I have yet to learn how the drainage system was put in place, but I know it’s vital to a community’s well-being.  Last weekend, I visited a community on the outskirts of Manila which does not yet have a drainage system.  Instead, their roads and lawns are spotted with standing water, which are so laden with filth (garbage, moss, mold, …) that it’s indisputably a health hazard.  Botocan, though, is quite fortunate to have built-in sewage systems.

Land Rights

The residents of Botocan do not yet have rights to the land they’re living on.  In 2008, the U.P. announced their plan to reclaim the land, but no real steps have been taken.  So residents of Botocan just go on with their daily lives, more or less un-phased.

After all, by now, they have mostly cement houses with corrugated tin roofs, organized into a healthy community network, with centralized basketball courts, barangay halls, and churches, all for community life.

 

An Unfinished Story… January 29, 2012

Filed under: People / Church / Community — Katie in Manila @ 4:00 pm

(PS. her leg is fine; it just looks funny with the camera angle.) ;)

There’s a 13-year-old girl in my neighborhood named Rubelyn.

She’s always hungry; she says her parents only feed her & her 4 older siblings once per day, at midnight.

She says it’s hard for her to focus in school because she’s only ever thinking about the breakfast she didn’t have.

Aspects of the Problem:

Naturally, my heart goes out to her, but I’m also cautious about how to “help” without exacerbating the situation.

First, I’m skeptical about how hungry she really is; she has turned down bananas, potatoes, and fish that I’ve offered her in favor of bread or spaghetti.  (To her credit, apparently her family only ever eats rice & bread products — it’s as if she’s never developed a taste for anything else.)  But she did enjoy a sweet orange I gave her for her birthday the other week.

Second, I told her I’d like to talk with her parents about their living expenses.  Rubelyn says that their electricity bills & water bills take away from what they could be spending on food.  From visiting their house, I know that they’ve had the lights & TV on for extended periods of time; could this be a problem of money management as much as anything else?

Rubelyn did not seem to want me to meet with her parents, repeating that they come home much too late.  She says they both work, but only her step-mom brings home a salary.  (I can’t help but wonder what’s happening to the dad’s salary.)

The Beginnings of a Solution?

It seems one long-term solution could be redirecting the parents’ earnings toward setting aside some breakfast & lunch money for the kids — (if one could just talk with them).  But in the mean time, Rubelyn & her siblings are still hungry.

Earlier today, after Sunday morning worship, I decided I would make a double-sized sack lunch for myself, show up at her house at noon, and ask to eat together at their house.  My host mom helped me pack some rice, chicken, scrambled egg, and mixed veggies, and some neighbors helped me locate her house again.  Only Rubelyn and her friend were home; her oldest brother was upstairs sleeping, so we ate in the dim stairway, next to 2 well-behaved chickens who live inside the entryway.  About 1/2 way through our meal, we heard the sound of a motorcycle, and Rubelyn panicked.  “You have to leave,” she said, hiding my tupperware.  ”My dad will get so mad!”

I exited the house on command, but waited nearby, making small-talk with the neighbor moms.  Once the dad had parked his motorcycle & gone inside, I explained the whole thing to the neighbors.

They didn’t have much of an answer for me, except that they perceive the family as stable, aside from the dad being hot-tempered.  Then the neighbor mom retrieved my plastics from inside the house, and with still no sign of Rubelyn coming back out, I headed home.

Thoughts…

What am I to think now?  Can I trust what Rubelyn is telling me?  And why does she not want me to come into contact with her parents (who obviously don’t just come home at night)?

And how do I continue on from here?  I want to continue drawing near to Rubelyn and getting to the bottom of this, but as I do so, I don’t want to be fooled and taken advantage of either.

Theology…

Jesus says, “I was hungry, and you fed me.”  I want it to be that simple.

So, we’re in the middle of an unfinished story right now.  Please be praying for discernment for me as it continues to unfold…  :)

 

New Neighbors: Part 2 November 24, 2011

Filed under: Uncategorized — Katie in Manila @ 7:23 am

It’s always more complicated than it seems.

I did my research, and the community is well aware of these families that are new to me.

 

Family from Story #1:

It seems they don’t really have to live in a push-cart.

The house they pulled up in front of is one they’ve parked at many times before in years past.  The adjacent house behind Lolo & Lola’s belongs to the now blind & feeble mother of the woman in the push-cart.  Theoretically, especially in Filipino culture, you should be living with your mother, taking care of her.

To their credit, rumor has it that the house is infested with bugs that live in your fabrics like fleas and stick to your skin like ticks.  I can understand choosing a push-cart over that.

At least they’re networked.  They have family to help sustain them.

And I should note that they haven’t actually begged anything of me.

 

Family from Story #2: 

The mentally-handicapped mom & child have an extensive network of relatives in our neighborhood, too, who actually send them out to beg, outside of Botocan.

They have visited my pastor’s family many times in the past asking for money.  My discerning pastor’s wife, Ate Ema, instead gave them ‘bigas’ (uncooked rice) and/or ‘tinapay’ (bread).  After a while, Ate Ema started challenging the woman that she really should find ‘real’ work, for the sake of the child she’s raising.  Believe it or not, there are small jobs that she’s capable of, like helping collect peoples’ trash on trash day.  (See former blog post: “You’re Not Going to EAT that, Are You?”)

After that, Ate Ema actually witnessed her participating in going door to door in the neighborhood along with the children, offering to take peoples’ trash to the dump-truck in exchange for a few pesos.

And the child, April, isn’t mute nor depressed.  She can be seen playing & talking with other children.  I guess she’s just been trained to put on her ‘game face’ when on the job, begging.

 

Third family:

Even with Lola & Lolo, I feel I don’t know the whole story.  It seems when you’re begging, you have to make it sound like you literally have nothing if the person you’re asking doesn’t give you something for their next impending meal.

When I bought rice for Lola & Lolo, and asked to eat with them, they told me at the beginning that they had zero pesos to spend on that meal.  I hung out at their house while Lola cooked the rice, and then she served me a plate and said, “You first; we’ll eat later.”  I insisted that I’d wait & eat with them.  After a little while, Lola left & came right back with some brothy fish soup to go on the rice.  It certainly wasn’t fancy — but it was something — worth more than the zero pesos she claimed to have started with.

But of course had she not been deceptive, I may not have seen anything wrong with asking them to chip in on the rice, and we could have had plain rice for dinner — which for Filipinos, it seems, is really not an option, no matter how poor you are.

Lola also has a drinking problem, and has failed at times to wash my clothes properly (as in… they still sometimes smell like sweat when she’s done) because she sometimes shows up to work drunk.  My host mom has actually stopped hiring her, but has left up to me whether or not I want to continue giving her my laundry.  I’m actually quite torn about it, in fact.

 

Begging: 

My pastor says he has seen kids (age 8-9) from Botocan out on the street corner outside Botocan begging.  A bit later, he saw those same kids in the computer shop playing games — more than likely using the money they had just ‘earned.’

My pastor also assured me that the people I mentioned above are so well networked that they’re not going to starve if I don’t buy them rice on any given encounter.

Today when I met the mentally-handicapped mom, she asked for money to buy RC Cola (generic Coke, 35 pesos), and instead I offered her the 2 oranges I had packed this morning with her in mind.  She didn’t accept them from me, but her daughter did.  I assured her that oranges are healthy, and pop is not.

“Beggars can’t be choosers.”  If hunger is your issue, you’ll take decent food when it’s offered, right?

 

Theological Reflections:

This all adds a new dimension to my thoughts earlier on

Greed & gluttony

Fairness, compassion, commitment

“I was hungry & you fed me”

“Whatever you did for the [overlooked/ignored], you did for me.”

 

So what now?  Ought I or our church still intervene?

And by what tactic (given the inherent element of deception in fronting a “beggar’s” lifestyle)?

 

New Neighbors November 23, 2011

Filed under: People / Church / Community — Katie in Manila @ 4:10 pm

A push-cart, like the one my new neighbor & her son live in.

Story #1: 

Last week, on my walk to a WIFI café outside Botocan, I met a mom & her mentally handicapped 13-year-old son who live in a push-cart under an umbrella on the sidewalk. 

I had met the son many times before, on the streets of Botocan.  He’s very polite, always pressing my hand to his forehead, a sign of blessing an elder.

That and sheer delight are about all he’s able to communicate to me.

When I passed by today, though, their cart had moved.  I was a bit surprised to find it in front of my neighbor’s home tonight when I got home!

I stopped & chatted in my halting Tagalog, and found out that the mom is the niece of Lola & Lolo, whom I had written about before — (Lola is the one who does our family’s laundry).

I’m kind of excited to have them as my new neighbors.

 

Story #2:

Earlier, around dinner time, I was approached by our community’s notorious mentally-handicapped mom who brings her malnourished, teary-eyed, silent 4-year-old, April, with her to go begging for food.  I walked with them to buy a half kilo of bigas (uncooked rice), making small talk along the way, holding April’s free hand.

It isn’t very easy to get deep into solving the problems of ‘where your daily food ought to come from’ when talking in halting Tagalog with a mentally-handicapped mother and a mute child.  But this is something I’d like to bring up with my pastor & my youth group.

Funny, not even 10 minutes before they approached me, I had been reading an email from another visitor to Botocan, musing about how our church might lovingly intervene specifically with April and her mom.

He spoke of another instance where another mute child who was drawn out of her circumstance-imposed ‘autism’ by a visitor faithfully reading stories to her.

 

Therefore:

So now I’m thinking:  I know 3 families that could really benefit from… what?  a shared meal, maybe?

(Namely: Lolo & Lola, their relatives that just rolled in, and April & her mom.)

What would you do?  I’m open to suggestions.

I kind of want to eat a weekly meal with them.

And share stories in Tagalog, about Jesus’ radical love, values, & call to discipleship.

…along with my church friends.

That’s what I’m praying for.

Maybe one of the small groups would like to get on board with me…

 

Theological ties:

It’s interesting that this all happened today, because just this morning, in my devotions, I was meditating on:

some of the things Jesus (in Matthew 23) named as not-so-overt sins of the religion scholars of his day:

greed & gluttonywhich could theoretically translate to ‘not sharing your food,’ among other things.

Jesus said, “you’ve missed the basics:

fairness,

compassion,

commitment.” 

 

A few chapters later (Matthew 25) is where Jesus draws the line between the sheep & the goats:

“I was hungry and you fed me.”

“Whatever you did for the [overlooked/ignored], you did for me.”

 

So… Meal?  Stories?   Who takes care of them, how, and with what objectives?  

I’m still trying to figure out the logistics & standard I would set of:

- Who might provide the food (or to what extent each could be expected to chip in)

- Who else would be invited – (would my church friends be motivated to partake, or even be committed to helping contribute?)

- How would we incorporate story well?

- I also don’t want to get myself stuck with a commitment that I can’t keep up — time-wise or financially.

 

What would you do?

Fairness,

Compassion,

Commitment.

That’s what Jesus is after.

 

Academic Event Report #1: Filipino Funeral in Botocan November 15, 2011

Filed under: Academic — Katie in Manila @ 1:30 pm

Introduction

Having lived in the informal settlement of Botocan (in Quezon City, Philippines) for nearly 5 months now, I have come to recognize that whenever a ‘tent’ awning goes up spanning the width of the major foot path between my abode and the basketball court (the barangay’s major intersection of foot paths), there’s bound to be a wake for a funeral beneath that tent.

Awning on my street under which people gather for the funeral wake.

The wake I observed spanned the whole of 8 days from Oct. 10 to Oct. 17, 2011.  Following the protocol advised by my informant, because neither I nor my friends knew the family, I made observations as I passed by multiple times a day, going to and from school and Bible study.  I was told that I would be most welcome and inconspicuous attending on one or both of the culminating days, when crowds show up for the “Last Lamay” or final farewell.  Unfortunately, I had calculated that this wake, like every prior wake I had experienced, would last 10 days.  I showed up on the 9th day only to find that every sign of the mourning party had been dissembled.

I found out later that the 10 day period is not as set in stone as I had originally understood, but fluctuates, primarily depending on how long it takes to gather just enough money to cover the cost of the burial.  Money exclusively for funeral expenses (as I will expound upon later) is donated from proceeds of the gambling that takes place literally ’round the clock beneath the ‘tent’ awning.

 

To finish with a sense of completion, I interviewed my community informant to fill in the culminating day’s details I missed, but expounded mostly in this report upon my observations in the initial 8 days of the wake.

 

I set out for the purpose of learning as much as possible through presence and questioning of community members, and was intrigued particularly by the roles of community members, superstitions surrounding death, and sense of ‘presence’ of the recently deceased.

 

Description & Interpretation

An urban poor Filipino funeral wake is a curious thing, especially as viewed from a middle class Western perspective.

As soon as a person passes away, news spreads like wildfire, and is picked up by numerous “FCs” (Field Coordinators), community members strategically hired by vying politicians to be the ears of the community.  Then it’s a race between the FCs to report the death to their chief of staff, who then commissions on behalf of the aspiring politician that a ‘tent’ awning, as well as provisions for the funeral, such as a bouquet, guest-food, and money, be delivered to the family of the deceased.  The first gift-clad political team to arrive on the scene gets to set up their tent with the politician’s face, name, and/or logo plastered conspicuously on all four sides.  The runner-up political teams are chastised by their leaders for not arriving in time with their own tents.  Their only next chance to make a good political impression is to out-do the other politicians with larger, more impressive bouquets (again, with no shame in blatantly advertising from whom the bouquet is sent).  The urban poor population actually makes up the majority of the voters in metro Manila, so politicians don’t hold back in treating even the least economically significant families like royalty, trying to win their confidence that this politician, if voted for, will remember the poor.

 

Outside the house of the recently deceased, shaded beneath the large political opportunist’s awning are several small plastic card tables, encircled by 4-8 white plastic chairs, beginning to be occupied by family, friends and neighbors.  Traditional Filipino culture assumes that the dead are still present in spirit up until the time of their internment in the cemetery, and cognizant of all that is said and done in proximity to their body.  For that reason, in true communal Filipino fashion, it is expected that someone will also be keeping company with the beloved recently departed.  People literally sit at these tables ’round the clock, taking turns keeping vigil.  To help them stay awake, the tradition of card playing and gambling has been implemented, accompanied by alcohol and coffee.  One might argue that the gambling itself, which is otherwise looked down upon (but enjoyed by many), may be the primary reason that some of the visitors who don’t necessarily know the family quite as well are still present.  It’s customary (expected, in fact) that at least 25% of the winnings from gambling will be donated to the family to help pay for funeral expenses, which often start at P20,000 (USD$465) for the casket and burial crew.  (The fact that the money is going for a good cause is what justifies the permission of gambling in this situation.)  Many times in poor communities, the gambling continues for as many nights as it takes to raise the appropriate funds — usually 10 days, give or take a few days.  (By contrast, in the middle class Filipino Christian circles, where fundraising is not necessary, the widespread phenomenon of gambling is also omitted.)

 

The mood of those gathered outside to keep vigil for the dead by gambling is light, which is a polite way to lift the spirits of the mourning family.  Visitors do consider themselves ‘sympathizers’ / ‘mourners,’ but the deepest expressions of grief are reserved for those most closely associated with the recently departed.  The Tagalog expression for what the visitors are doing, “nakakanamay,” still expresses more than “I’m present / attending a wake,” but rather, “I am fully immersed, participating in sympathizing with the family.”

 

Just inside the house (visible from the street) of the most recent funeral-wake I observed, fewer people, more solemn, are also gathered in the same room as the casket.  It is positioned with the feet of the dead pointing toward the door, in accordance with an old superstition, the reason for which is lost to bygone days.  The portion on the casket that covers most of the body is closed, but the part covering the head is lifted, with only a piece of glass on the coffin separating the face of the departed from the eyes of the observers.  Atop the center of the coffin is a single lit candle, a symbol of inviting the spirit of the deceased to move freely around its familiar premises.  Also atop the coffin, depending on the time & day, is a plate of food for the deceased.  As often as the family prepares a special meal, they also set aside the portion that the dead family member would have ordinarily eaten.  This is practiced more as remembrance; they don’t actually believe that the dead consume the food in any way.  It’s just a sign of inclusion, which will later be broken upon removal of the casket.

 

Inside the casket, the body is either posed with a clenched fist or open palm, left in the same form as the person took when they died, whether clenched in pain or relaxed and at peace.  Filipino superstition holds that an open palm means that the spirit of the dead is glad to assist, making it easy for the family to collect the “abuloy,” (the money for the funeral expenses).  A clenched fist means that the spirit is currently working against the collection.  If the palm is open, family members will place money in the hand, which will later be retrieved at the end of the wake and distributed to immediate family members for good luck in financial prosperity.  Also on the hand, whether opened or closed, is a beaded rosary, snipped in order to break the “chain of death.”  Coincidentally, when one person in a community dies, it’s not unheard of for another to follow within the next few days.  It’s feared that perhaps the spirit of the recently deceased has a part in pulling another along with it.  Sure enough, within a few days of the start of the particular wake I’m observing, another tent awning popped up a few hundred meters away in the basketball court.  Another death, confirming the suspected chain of events.

 

Beside the coffin are the competing flower arrangements from the vying politicians, as well as seating furniture for the mourners.  It’s common practice for one or several mourners to be talking with the dead, often getting unresolved emotions off their chest.  A lot of drama can come out at funerals; long-held secrets are revealed; pleas of forgiveness are begged of the deceased, whose spirit is believed to still be in the room, listening.  (In the same way that a Westerner might rush to see a dear one before they pass so that they can say their good-byes and find closure, a Filipino might be deliberate about saying good-bye post mortem.  Filipinos actually try not to make a big deal about death before it happens.  A dying elder, for example, might not tell their family if the doctor informs the elder of impending death, so as not to trouble or worry the family.  As a result, death sometimes takes a family by surprise, and most of the traditions giving closure to the passing of a loved one happen after their departure.)

 

After a few days, the house starts to get a bit dirty/messy, but no one starts to sweep or clean up: first, because mourners are not expected to toil, and second, to uphold another superstitious tradition:  Also in attendance (so they say) are the ancestral spirits.  Since we don’t know where they’re nestled, there’s a chance we might disturb or offend them by sweeping.  So that’s reserved for the last day.

 

Immediate (living) family members in mourning are automatically excused from jobs, without even having to submit a leave of absence.  While mourning, according to tradition, they’re also not supposed to shower.  In the city, this practice gets modified from the diligence with which it is upheld in the province.  Family members can shower — just not in the house that contains the casket.  Bathing is considered a comfort, and mourners are not supposed to be making themselves comfortable in that manner while grieving.

 

Relatives come great distances to attend the wake.  The one on the foot path by my house was attended for 2 of the days by somewhat wealthy relatives, as evidenced by the two cars that had wedged their way in and parked along the side (taking up over 1/2 the width) of the foot path.  What can you say, though, to people in mourning?  So the cars were permitted to stay.

Visitors are expected to come with food to be shared amongst all those in attendance.  The immediate family of the deceased is responsible for coming up with the rest that’s needed to keep their guests fed — not every meal, but they should always have at least some light snacks available.

 

The “Last Lamay” is the culminating night of the 10 (or so) day wake.  For this, everyone who has any interest is invited to be present all night (gambling), keeping vigil even into the morning, at which point the events of the burial begin.

 

As the family prepares to remove the coffin from the house, the attitude toward the dead one changes.  Instead of acknowledging their presence as a member of the family, they begin to encourage the spirit to acknowledge its own reality that its body is once again becoming one with the earth, and the spirit is expected to leave the house of its former family.

First, immediately upon lifting the coffin to remove it, the plate that had been set on the coffin with the inclusive portion of food, is tossed on the floor, broken, and promptly swept up, signifying that the spirit no longer has place here with this family.  The coffin is carried out the door (being careful not to rub up against the house… or anyone else’s house along the way for that matter, lest death should come upon that house as well).  As the coffin exits, so should the spirit of the dead, plus the spirits of all the ancestors who came to join in the wake.  To ensure that the spirits (and all their belongings) leave at once, the house is thoroughly swept, and all the windows are closed.  Every living person also exits the house; anyone remaining is sure to be met soon by death.

 

I was not privy to attend the funeral itself, but learned these details and thought them interesting to report:

 

The funeral procession (called the ‘funeralia’) proceeds to a Catholic chapel, where holy water is sprinkled on the coffin, to instill in the recently passed spirit that he/she is returning to the elements from whence he/she came.  On the way to the cemetery, traditionally-minded Chinese Filipinos toss money into the streets for good luck.  (I was told that Filipino road maintenance crews are quick to take advantage of this display, unrestrained by any particular beliefs about not disturbing the money.)

 

Once at the cemetery, the urban poor are most often buried in the cheapest fashion: “apartments” stacked one atop another.  Before sliding the coffin into its final resting place, small children are passed over the coffin, as a sign of forgiveness, fulfilling the superstition that perhaps the child mistakenly offended the dead and didn’t ask forgiveness from the spirit during the wake.  This ritual serves to absolve the child and prevent the spirit from coming back to unfinished business and doing harm to the child.   Wailing (primarily from the women) ensues as the coffin is slid into its compartment.

 

After the burial, the final tradition is that the attendees should go to the house where the wake was held, and wash their hands there, as a final closing to the proceedings.

 

None of the money that was raised from the gambling for the family can be kept after the funeral; it all must be spent (on snacks for the guests, if nothing else) during the course of the wake & funeral).

 

After these 10 or so days, everything seems to have returned to normal.  There are no lingering signs of a funeral having been at the house; visitors return home, family members bathe and return to work.  The spirit is now part of the spirit world and it is hoped that it will not return to the home, having been given a proper farewell.

 

Rooftops September 30, 2011

Filed under: Urban Realities — Katie in Manila @ 1:25 am

There’s a warm breeze this morning.  The sun is out in full force, drying up what’s left from the typhoon 2 days ago.  The flooded streets had made a clean sweep of the trash & animal excrements, but the strong wind had only added to the mess.

There’s still a tiny pool of water on my neighbor’s tarp that serves as his roof.  During the storm, I saw him out on his roof, pulling taught the edges, adding blankets & bricks to seal it from the elements.

It reminds me of when I was a child, building tents & forts with blankets & whatever else was available.

Over the tarp roof is a bushy tree, with one strong branch, from which hangs a rope that disappears from my view on the other side of the roof.  If this was my childhood, it might be a rope swing.

My neighbor’s house is fairly protected, nestled in the corner of a 2-story house and a rough brick wall that blocks from my view all but the rooftops of the wealthy neighbors’ 3-story mansions in the gated community.  I wonder if their side of the wall is painted.  Ours is shabby (but sturdy) and growing moss.

Mama Merly says she wishes the neighbors on this side wouldn’t use tires to hold down their corrugated tin rooftops.  They collect water, breeding mosquitoes.  I told Mama Merly a while ago they should just cut the tires so that the water will drain.  Nothing came of it.

A few weeks ago, there was a pile of tires in the basketball court, (which is the juncture for major footpaths in our neighborhood).  I asked my insider-informant about it. “They were probably collected from people’s rooftops.  Mosquitoes, you know.  People should be using nails, not tires, to hold down their roofs.  Tires just take less effort.”  I told him about my idea of boring holes in the tires.  No response.  That takes effort too, I guess.

Maybe the general feeling among some is: “When it becomes a problem, we’ll address it.”

During the storm 2 days ago, my informant says he saw rooftops flying.

 

 

There are still too many factors I just don’t know about.

But I can’t help but wonder about the dynamics of:

  • People being helpless, or having learned helplessness.
  • Oppression — not as anything malicious, but as letting the status quo remain the status quo, without giving thought to how to fix it, or if having thought about it, coming up void of practical, easy solutions.
 

How to Eat a Pig Head September 24, 2011

Filed under: People / Church / Community — Katie in Manila @ 7:22 pm

Step 1:  Butcher a Pig.

Step 2:  Remove the Innards.

Step 3:  ”Pass the Pig” …Head

Step 4:  Cook it.

Step 5:  Dig in!

 

You’re not going to EAT that, are you? September 6, 2011

Filed under: Learn to Speak Tagalog!,People / Church / Community — Katie in Manila @ 12:09 pm

These are not the kids who were at my door, but I like the how the little smile on the front girl's face communicates how I feel now about this story. I'm laughing at myself as I continue to make bloopers crossing cultures.

Wed, Sept 6, 2011 - ”Tapon” or “Tao po”?

I recently learned the word “tapon” (to throw away), which sounds like “tao po” (knock, knock, can I come in?).  Had I known this a month ago, it might have made all the difference in the following encounter:

Sat, Aug 6, 2011

Two kids just arrived at my door.

“Tapon, Tapon,” they called.  I thought they were saying, “Tao po, tao po.”

“May basura?” they asked.  (Do you have trash?)  It’s not Wednesday (trash day), I thought.  Why do they want trash?    I motioned to the nearest trash can, a small bag of scraps by the sink with flies swarming around it.  No, they didn’t want it.  “Oh, recyclables,” I thought, and offered two glass bottles.  No again.  I brought out a trash can containing empty wrappers.  No.  “Baboy at kanin,” (pork and rice), they requested, and pointed to a big bag of leftovers on the windowsill.  Food waste; it had been outside the fridge for a while and was waiting for disposal.  I gave it to them, then blurted out in English, “You’re not going to eat that, are you?”  They looked back at me blankly, which I took to mean, “Why wouldn’t we?”  In a flash, I did what anyone in my shoes would do: I opened the “ref” (fridge) and started filling a clean bag with still-fresh dishes of meat, veggies, and rice, asking “gusto mo?” (do you like/want this?) about each one.  The kids left, and I sat & pondered what happened, feeling quite selfish for all the fresh food & treats I’d eaten that morning.  A few moments later, the kids returned, asking for “bayad” (payment — not charity).  “Magkano?” (What’s the price?) I asked.  “Bahala,” they answered (Whatever is God’s will that you would give us).  No idea.  I found my host brother, and explained the whole thing.  “It’s 5 pesos,” he said, “and they were just taking out our trash.”

I felt relieved that I hadn’t just encountered people who pick through trash for food — although I know there are places in this city where that happens.  In retrospect, I’m even a little ashamed that I would assume that about our neighborhood, because people here are so conscious about taking care of each other that it would be totally undignified to give someone food-waste when you have proper, edible food available… I think.

At least the kids’ family got a free meal out of the deal.  I hope they understood it was to eat.

This was a good reminder for me that as much as I strive to be culturally aware and sensitive, I am still prone to instincts and impulses rooted in my culture and assumptions that lead to inferences and responses that can easily be way off-track.

 

Lola & Lolo September 2, 2011

Filed under: People / Church / Community — Katie in Manila @ 12:02 am

I changed the names to preserve anonymity; the people in this picture are not Lola & Lolo, but this is an example of a 'tricycle' ... with some of my friends inside. :D

Rejoice with me!  I’m getting to know my community members, and therein finding ways I can share in their joys & struggles, and even some probable solutions…

 

Lola, the woman who washes my family’s laundry on occasion, just lost her regular job; she used to wash clothes for a middle-class household, but was replaced by a full-time house-help.

 

When I met her on the street this evening, she was trying to figure out what she & her husband & 7 kids were going to do for dinner.  I asked what her options were, and she explained in Tagalog using the words “hanap” (look for) and “utang” (debt).  Not sure whether she was looking to go into debt to her neighbors, or hoping to retrieve money/favors from those who were indebted to her.  I asked who owed her money.  “Wala” (there’s no one).

 

Having talked through a few options,  I asked if I could join them for dinner and also have the pleasure of providing the rice.

We climbed the stairs into their humble abode, and had a great time hanging out, joking, singing, and conversing as much as I could in Tagalog with her kids and husband while she cooked the rice.

 

I learned that Lola’s husband, Lolo, hasn’t worked for 3 months.

He used to drive tricycle (earning about 400 pesos a day, spending 120 pesos per day to rent the tricycle).

Then one day, his wallet fell out of his pocket, and with it, his driver’s license.  Without a license, you can’t drive, so he had to stop working.

A driver’s license shouldn’t be that hard to replace — it only costs 150 pesos ($4) for the government office to make a new one, but you also need an official affidavit stating that it was simply lost, and it’s difficult when you don’t know how to proceed with the legal processes.

 

I’m excited now thinking about it because I know a lawyer — one of my professors — who does a lot on behalf of the poor.  I’ll ask him if he’d be able to draw up an affidavit, and let Lolo know I have a contact for him if he’s interested.

 

 
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